Price: $29.99 USD

Comments: Easy to navigate, MANY MANY auction sources and Motorcycles with few or no bids.

Click here to visit their website.

We all want a good deal on a used bike and these guys promise to deliver access to these great deals for the somewhat expensive price of $29.99. We decided to try it out on the premise that $29 spent now could mean savings of a few hundred to a few thousand dollars on this writer’s next motorcycle! It’s worth mentioning that we’ve seen this priced at $39.95 in the past so there must be a promo on at the moment for $29.99

What We Like About Sheriff Auctions

It’s easy to get access to their members area, just put your credit card details in and access is instant. Once we’d paid, we were directed to the command centre which is basically your starting point for navigating the members area. The transaction process is simple with no glitches when being re-directed to the members area. This is the way all online shopping should be.

Looking around in the site, you’ll notice several things immediately:

• There are TONS of links to government auction sources - Who knew there were this many federal and municipal auction sites? Even the IRS auctions are listed here.

• There is an excellent organizational structure to the link madness- Sheriff Auctions has painstakingly categorized and linked all these resources into a structure that is easy to navigate. For example, we clicked on “California” and were taken to a page with about 60 sources for local auctions!

• These are auction sources for EVERYTHING - It looks like the hundreds of sources for seized and surplus auctions are not specific to motorcycles. Through the links that Sheriff Auctions provided we came across the entire contents of a dentist’s office with a starting bid at $7,001!!. Also worthy of mention was an “old person scooter” , you know the ones that wal mart provides for the elderly? The bid was only $10. Well, we got a kick out of it!

We really didn’t expect so many quality links; I mean for $29.99, somebody spent a lot of time and effort searching each state for auction sources and compiling all the data in one place. There are literally hundreds of auction sites to choose from.

What We DON’T Like About Sheriff Auctions

Once we got in past the control center and started clicking around, we realized that it was going to be hard to find an actual motorcycle for sale for two reasons:

• There are so many damn links that you could be looking through auction listings all day (which for some may not be a bad thing)

• We didn’t see any auctions specifically for motorcycles. Not to say that there aren’t any, just that we didn’t see them. After some looking around we found one site with 42 bikes currently up for auction, all of which were under $500 and many didn’t even have bids so they are there, it will just take some time to find them due to the sheer number of auction sites to go through.

Overall

You could always just check out eBay itself however a lot of the bike’s you’ll find there have been through the circuit of local classified ads and did not sell for a reason. Despite the fact that it’s not limited to motorcycle auctions and that their content will take you all day and night to go through, we would fully recommend Sheriff Auctions to somebody who has the know how to bid at an online auction (hopefully not too hard for the eBay generation) and is in need of a motorcycle.

Click here to visit Sheriff Auctions

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2. Review: Get Ready To Pass Instructional Videos
3. Review: VRides Motorcycle Training Guide

Finally, after a fair bit of persistence and a random encounter with a rider on a 400R, we were able to hop on one and take it for a proper test ride.

Initial Impression of the 2011 Kawasaki Ninja 400R

At 6’2″ and 227lbs, I am not a light person.  In fact I always feel a little ridiculous when I review smaller motorcycles like the 400R.  Aside from looking like someone who just stepped out of a clown car when riding one, I find that many smaller motorcycles struggle to actually keep a larger rider like myself moving.  Accelerating a big person when you have a small motor is a challenge, so of course I’m somewhat apprehensive when I hop on a motorcycle with less than 500cc’s.

I am happy to say that the Ninja 400R, with all 399cc’s of parallel-twin goodness, moves me pretty well.  It makes roughly 44 horsepower, which is very close to what the departed Ninja 500R made, and 27 lb-ft of torque.  Those numbers, while certainly not encroaching on superbike territory, are more than enough to move the common person around.  It did do a pretty good job of moving my “husky” rump, that’s for certain.

The fairings give it a real sporty look, very similar to what Kawasaki has done with both the Ninja 650R and the Ninja 250R.  Some may find the aggressive appearance a little off-putting, but I didn’t.  In fact, I’m a real fan of the boy racer look.

Riding the 2011 Kawasaki Ninja 400R

The 400R has a great riding position if you’re a taller person; you sit upright, with a slight lean.  If you have back problems, or just find super sports uncomfortable, the 400R might be right up your alley.  If you are much taller than 6’2″ I don’t know how comfortable you’ll find the bike as the foot pegs may be a bit tight.  Otherwise, as far as a smaller motorcycle goes, the 400R fares pretty well in the comfort arena.

The all-digital display lights up beautifully at night (as it was when I was riding it) and highlights the important information (RPM, speed) by drawing your attention to them quite effectively.  If you’ve ever driven a Honda S2000 you may actually find the instrument panel quite similar: the speed is shown on top of a “swooping” rev meter.  Very cool.

Given that’s fuel injected, the 400R starts right up and purrs wonderfully.  Acceleration is brisk, though nothing that will cause you to pop your front tire off the ground (unless you’re really trying to do it).  Like the 500R, the Ninja 400R has plenty of mid-range power; also like the 500R, the newest mid-range Ninja suffers down low and up top.  This is perfect for city riding, where you’ll spend most of your time between 3,500 – 7,000 rpm, but may quickly become underwhelming if you’re used to the down-low torque of a larger v-twin or the up-top ridiculousness of 600cc+ sport bikes.

Personally, I loved it.  Having ridden a Ninja 500R for a first bike, riding the 400R was as much nostalgia as it was invigorating.  The 400R’s suspension is finely-tuned, and new riders (or anyone really) on the bike will quickly find themselves becoming more and more comfortable with throwing the little Ninja around.  It’s light weight, combined with a somewhat-stiff suspension setup, really make this bike fun in the city.  I can’t comment on highway riding as I was unable to take it to highway speeds for more than a few minutes.

Jam the brakes and you’ll find yourself coming to a stop rather quickly.  My earlier comments about the light weight and fun in the twisties applies to braking: smaller, lighter motorcycles have less grunt to move around.  When I lost most of my beer-belly I noticed it infinitely easier to run, climb, stop, and jump.  Same concept, different vehicle

Our 2011 Kawasaki Ninja 400R Review’s Epic Conclusion

Do you want a motorcycle but are afraid to hop on a 600cc+ machine?  Does the concept of riding a 125cc or 250cc sound outright boring?  If you answered yes to either of those questions you may find exactly what you are looking for in the Ninja 400R.

It’s fun.  It’s quick.  It’s confident.  And it’s just a blast to throw around.

If you aren’t planning on racing on the weekends or having looooong highway commutes, the 400R could be a great fit!

Related posts:

1. Kawasaki Gives Canada and Japan the Ninja 400R
2. The 2011 Motorcycle Show – Highlights, Part 1
3. Kawasaki Ninja 250R

Face it: the only reason anyone in North America rides a motorcycle is because we love the feeling of being on two wheels.  Sure, the fuel economy and is nice, but nothing can trump the feeling of hitting a corner at a 30 degree angle, leaned over, screaming like a banshee the whole way.

You’ve done that, and it’s okay to admit it.  If you haven’t yet I highly suggest you take some time to find out what you’ve been missing.

Riding in the Rain: What New Riders Should Be Aware Of

What does screaming like a banshee have to do with riding in the rain?  A lot more than you’d think, actually.  Riding in the rain is an incredible sensory experience: the sound of rain droplets hitting your helmet at 80mph is unlike anything you’ve ever heard; the smell of fresh rain is truly intoxicating when there’s nothing around you to hide it; the feeling of the cool air rushing through your riding gear is downright refreshing. It almost feels like your playing a real-life video game.

However, despite how much fun it is, you still need to be aware of the situation you’re in.

• Always be aware of how much traction you do or don’t have - Water on the road lessens traction.  That is obvious, but something that we tend to forget when we are sitting in the relative safety of our car/truck/SUV/minivan/whatever.  Having four wheels with reduced traction is very different than having two wheels with reduced traction.  Go a little easier on the throttle, especially when cornering.

• Check your visibility - You spit up water from your rear wheel when you are riding, not unlike the way a sea-doo does when it’s going full-tilt.  Cars and trucks also spray water behind them, and it can really impede your ability to see clearly.  Be sure to give a little extra following distance.

• Be aware of additional road hazards - During light/moderate rain, the only real additional hazard you’ll likely need to be aware of is small puddles.  During heavier rain you may need to watch for fallen branches, loose items getting blown in the wind, and serious puddles.  Ride slower, and don’t take any risk you don’t need to.

• DO NOT RIDE DURING HEAVY/TORRENTIAL RAIN - If the rain is really coming down don’t hop on your bike.

The beauty of riding is that we get to truly enjoy everything the road has to offer.  This includes different weather systems, road ways, and riding experiences that simply don’t exist when you’re driving a car.  Get out there and have some fun, just remember to be safe about it.

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Weighing in at 458lbs (600cc), the Katana is far from a light bike- that’s what makes the Katana such a great bike for new riders.  With that much weight it feels planted on the highway, handling bumps and small potholes without fuss.  Twist the throttle and the front end will stay planted, allowing you to enjoy maximum acceleration with minimum wheelie-time.  For a new rider, that’s perfection.

The “Guts” of the 2004 Suzuki Katana 600

Powering the Katana 600 is a 600cc inline-4 based off of an older generation GSXR-750 motor.  The engine has been modified and detuned to 600cc, creating approximately 80 horsepower, and a helluva good time.  With “1 down and 5 up”, the transmission will feel perfect for just about anyone.

Other utilities loaded onto the Katana include electric start, dual headlights (hi/low), vented front and rear disc brakes, a fuel guage, and a digital clock.  Thanks to the bulletproof motor, the Katana 600 will run through just about anything.

The Suzuki Katana is a bit of a “parts bin special” due to the fact that it was made from bits of pieces of other bikes.  To save money, corners were cut in areas so that the bike would be a good overall performer and still be price competitive.  As a result you get a bike that is good at a lot of things but fails to excel.

Riding the 2004 Suzuki Katana 600

If you’re used to the low-end torque provided by v-twins, or the crazy high-end power offered by supersports, the Katana may seem disappointing.  The 600cc inline-4 lacks low-end toque, but by the time you hit 7,000rpm the Katana is ready to throw everything it’s got at you.  The result is a bike that is easy to “ride slow”, while at the same time, can be a screamer up top if you want it to be.  This means new riders can comfortably learn the limits of the bike without having to scare themselves senseless.

As mentioned previously, the Katana 600 weighs in at 458lbs.  This bike is definitely not light, so don’t expect to be able to flick it around the corners in the same way you would with a smaller motorcycle (like a Ninja 500R, for example).  Of course, this pays off when you’re making long trips- the weight lends stability and traction that it wouldn’t otherwise have.  When we said that it was a sport/sport-tourer hybrid, we meant that in every sense you can imagine: it’s got the engine, transmission, and adjustable suspension of a sport bike along with the stability, riding position, and comfort of a sport-tourer.  It also has a ton of storage (for a motorcycle)- more than most litre bikes.

Down low the Katana feels like a powerful V6 car.  It moves with traffic and can certainly negotiate itself well.  Up high, however, is where the V6 becomes a V8, packing lots of accessible power and sounding like a bat out of hell.  For someone with limited riding experience the power may actually be a bit too much, but thankfully the bike gives you the option of choosing how it is going to be ridden.

Finding the Suzuki Katana 600 Used

Suzuki stopped production of the Katana in 2006.  During its production run over over 15 years over 50,000 Katana’s were sold.  This means that they are relatively easy to find, and their pricing is competitive.  The yellow 2004 Katana we reviewed, for example, was purchased for $3,650 with just over 20,050km on the odometer.

For a bike that requires nearly no extraneous maintenance, looks great, and is lots of fun, the Suzuki Katana fails to disappoint and provides  a riding experience that smaller motorcycles just can’t replicate.  If you want a motorcycle that will easily last you 3 or 4 years, the Suzuki Katana 600 is an excellent choice.

Related Blogs

• Related Blogs on Suzuki

• Related Blogs on Suzuki Katana
• 530 SPROCKET CONVERSION « SUZUKI GSX KATANA Custom Build Blog
• KATANA LED TURN SIGNALS « SUZUKI GSX KATANA Custom Build Blog
• KATANA CHARGING SYSTEM « SUZUKI GSX KATANA Custom Build Blog
• SUZUKI KATANA Blog » THE PAINT IS KILL’N ME!!
• SUZUKI KATANA Blog » KATANA USD INVERTED FORKS

Related posts:

1. 2011 Kawasaki Ninja 400R Impressions
2. Suzuki SV650
3. Suzuki GS500

You’ve gotten past the part where stalling the motorcycle at lights is the norm, and you’ve eliminated the “coast to a stop” as your standard mode of deceleration. A certain degree of confidence is beginning to show itself, and that’s good. Now is the time to “up your game” a little bit, and start learning little tricks that can make your motorcycle riding career safer and smarter.

Plan an Escape Before You Stop!

When you stop at a light, or behind a car, DON’T put the motorcycle in neutral and take your hands off the bars. Always keep your motorcycle in gear, clutch pulled in and a finger or two on the front brake. Maybe when the guy behind you stopped he gave you some space, but there’s no guarantee the guy behind HIM isn’t too busy yelling into his cell phone to notice everyone in front of him is already stopped! People often don’t do well at judging how far away they are from motorcycles, especially coming up from behind. You’ll find that cars will often get UNREASONABLY close to you and you should be ready to MOVE at any moment; a “fender bender” in a vehicle is a trip to the hospital for a biker.

Watch For Oil or Other “Car Blood” On The Road

Some guy had a bad vehicular day, and his transmission spit fluids everywhere. He didn’t have a good day – and you can have a worse one if you stop in a puddle of oil or other shiny gunk. Oil and bike tires are a bad match. When a motorcycle tire is coated in slick oil or other “vehicle blood”, even the slightest twist of the throttle can break the rear tire loose. Cool if you’re in the D1 Drift Circuit, not cool if you’re on a motorbike! Sand can also cause a graceful stop to become a floundering one. Being road aware at all time, not just when you stop, can prevent you from becoming part of the asphalt.

Stay Visible In Your Lane

Keeping yourself in the exact centre of the lane feels like a good thing, and while you’re moving, it can be. When coming to a stop on a motorcycle, drift a bit to the left as you aim your front wheel past the vehicle in front of you. When people are driving they tend to focus on what’s directly in front of and directly behind them. Since the steering wheel is on the left side of the car here (the CORRECT side), drivers are naturally going to be more aware of whats going on in that plane of vision. By stopping your motorcycle in the left side of the lane, you can be sure that you’re getting the attention of drivers both in front of and behind you. Any attention you can draw to yourself on a bike, outside of making rude hand gestures, is good attention.

The Space Question

We’re beating this to death, but it’s extremely important to keep your options open for a split second escape when stopped. “How much space do I leave?” you ask. Leaving more than a couple of bike lengths between your motorcycle and the next car, encourages dummies to try and turn into the “vacant” space and not leaving enough can mean that you get put in a bad spot, should you need to escape in a hurry. There is no “correct” amount of stopping distance from the car in front of you but a fairly reliable yardstick is two motorcycle lengths. There’s nothing that will fill your pants faster (with you know what) on a bike than seeing a car in your mirror coming up fast behind you and having nowhere to go! You can’t fix the other drivers, but you can be ready for them.

The Mirror Trick

One final suggestion: while you’re stopped on your motorcycle – clutch in, first gear selected – is to tilt your handlebars a bit and rock the bike to the side so you can see a few cars behind you in your mirror. If one of them doesn’t seem to be slowing fast enough, or suddenly locks up all four and starts sliding, you have a couple of seconds warning – and for a bike, that’s usually enough time to get out of the way. Now go home and change your pants!

Riding a bike has incomparable moments of joy; but leathers, brains and reflexes are your only defences if someone else screws up – planning escape routes before you stop and being aware of oil and debris on the road at all times can prevent a good ride from turning into a bad ride. If you’re checking out the babe in the next car, who is also checking out you and your bike, don’t forget to notice when the light changes… Blaring horns totally ruin the moment!

Let Us Know If There Is Something We’ve Missed!

We encourage comments on all posts! Please note however that comments are moderated to ensure a good experience for all users. That means no spam please!

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The best thing about these riding suits is that they aren’t just riding suits that are designed to look good- they’re designed to perform as well.  All of the gear offered by Universal Designs have the same set of features:

• Actual CE approved body armor - Unlike most replica suits, or even the movie suits themselves, these editions feature actual body armor.  You know, the kind that will actually offer a certain level of protection should you fall.

• Form-molded leather detailing - Always nice to look good, and with all the detailing made of high-quality leather, you’ll be looking better than Sam Flynn himself.

• Movie-specific accents and detailing - Depending on which replica you bought (Bat Man, Iron Man, Tron, etc.) the suit will be customized so that it looks as close to the “real deal” as possible.

The best part of those whole situation is the price.  A full suit for an average sized man is right around $1,000 USD, which considering the market it is competing in, is actually very price competitive.  If you’re a movie buff who’s always wanted to have Batman’s suit of armor now’s your chance.

To quote the great Adam Savage (of MythBusters fame): “As a fan of the movies, like Batman, one often fantasizes about actually wearing super hero armour, knowing full well that the actor in the film is clothed in latex and urethane meant to look protective, but not actually practical. UD Replicas has changed all that with their gorgeous Dark Knight Motorcycle armour. Their suit is the real thing. It moves with you, gives real protection, and satisfies the movie buff to boot. It’s a rare and amazing thing: a replica that exceeds its inspiration in every way. I’d much rather own a set of UD Replica armour than the real suit from the film.”

Visit Universal Designs

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The Calgary motorcycle show wrapped up last night, and thankfully I was able to attend to snap some pictures and see what’s new and exciting in the motorcycle world.  I took some great pictures, had some fantastic conversations (including a good one with a rep from Suzuki Canada), and left quite excited about some things (I’ll talk about that in a moment).  Of course, this is BeginnerMotorcycleReviews.com, so I tailored my trip for bikes that fit that niche.

A couple of the most exciting changes coming to the beginner motorcycle market are the Honda CBR250R and the Kawasaki Ninja 400R.  Both promise to offer great riding experiences at very affordable price points.  Without further ado, here are some of my highlights for the 2011 year (in no particular order):

2011 Kawasaki Versys

With a smooth 649cc parallel-twin engine (hmm, where have we seen that before?), the Versys is becoming one of my personal favorites.  The engine is optimized for mid-range performance as opposed to peaky power delivery.  Our experience with this engine has proven it to be torquey, with plenty of get-up-and-go without having to worry about the front literally getting up and going!

The Versys sports a comfortable riding position for most riders (at 6’2 and 215lbs I found it quite comfortable) and plenty of space for a passenger.  If you’re looking for an entry-level motorcycle that offers plenty of jam when you mash the throttle, but is still comfortable and easy to ride, the 2011 Kawasaki Versys is a great choice (watch for our 2011 Kawasaki Versys review coming later this spring).

2011 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

Surprised to see this here?  Considering how much we love the Ninja 650R it should come as no surprise that we made a point of checking this year’s model out.  Nothing really changes for the 2011 model year with the exception of some new color and graphic packages.

Of course, I like the “if it aint broke don’t fix it” approach sometimes, and this bike definitely falls into that category.  A couple of years ago Kawasaki made some massive changes to the 650R, resulting in a motorcycle that is a blast to ride for new and experienced riders alike.  We still love its two-tone looks, comfortable riding position, and excellent fuel economy.  The 649cc parallel-twin engine is one of our favorites for a bike like this.

Quick, great looking, and a blast to ride- what more could you want?

2011 Kawasaki Ninja 400R

Exclusive to Canada and Japan, the Kawasaki Ninja 400R looks like a spiritual successor to the widely popular (and, sadly, no longer available) Ninja 500R.  It has a tight, compact frame and is very lightweight.  I found it a bit too small (again, being 6’2″ and 215lbs) but my girlfriend (5’7″ and 135lbs) absolutely adores it.  It promises to offer a bit more pep than the Ninja 250R while still remaining plenty manageable.

While we haven’t had the chance to ride one yet (on account of our sub-zero temperatures and white-fluffy stuff on the ground), we suspect that our recommendation for cautious or smaller riders may shift away from the 250R and land squarely on the 400R.

2011 Honda CBR125R

As with last year, we will not be doing a review of the 2011 Honda CBR125R this year.  There simply hasn’t been enough changes to the motorcycle to justify finding another one to take out and review.  However, also like last year, the CBR125R is an absolute bargain at $1,899 ($3,499 CAD before manufacturer incentives).  The CBR125R is Canada-only (sorry America) and is the little-little brother of the newly introduced 2011 Honda CBR250R.

We recommend this motorcycle to smaller people who are looking for something that can bomb around town.  Due to it small size (and engine size) the CBR125R isn’t ideal for highway riding.  However, it gets exceptional fuel economy and is an absolutely blast to ride.  It’s like a better looking, faster, less scootery scooter!

2011 Honda CBR250R

New for 2011, the Honda CBR250R promises to be the missing link in Honda’s entry-level lineup.  Available pretty much everywhere (including the USA), the CBR250R is similar to the Kawasaki Ninja 250R in that it is small, lightweight, and perfect for new riders looking for something that’s both great looking and extremely manageable.  It’s base price of $3,999 USD is nearly identical to that of the Kawasaki 250R, except that for an additional $500 you can also grab ABS- a feature the Kawasaki doesn’t have.

Using a 249cc single-cylinder engine, the CBR250R cranks out an impressive 26 horsepower (at 8,500 rpm) and 17ftlb of torque (at 7,000 rpm).  It features great looks (it certainly doesn’t look like an entry level motorcycle) and lots of engineering and technology.

I am really stoked for this motorcycle as it means that things could really heat up between Kawasaki and Honda!

2011 Yamaha FZ8 and 2011 Yamaha Fazer 8

The 2011 Yamaha FZ8 is probably the one motorcycle I’m the most excited about this year!  Packing 105 horsepower, delivered by a 779cc inline-four cylinder engine, the Yamaha FZ8 is a gorgeous naked bike that promises to offer plenty of punch while still remaining manageable and enjoyable.  This is not an ideal beginner bike in the sense that it packs a lot of power for a new rider, but it is certainly much easier to ride than a super sport thanks to its upright and comfortable riding position.

The 2011 Yamaha FZ8 starts at $8,490 USD ($10,499 CAD).

Starting at $10,999 CAD (not available in the USA), the 2011 Fazer 8 is the dressed version of the FZ8.  While our aesthetic preference leans slightly toward the naked FZ8, the Fazer 8 still looks great and promises to be an excellent street machine as well.  Look for the upcoming 2011 Yamaha FZ8 review (and long term review, since I bought one).  While the Fazer 8 is not currently available in the USA there are rumors suggesting that it soon will be.

Stay tuned for part 2 of the 2011 motorcycle show!

No related posts.

(Click for larger image)

Engine Size: 399cc
Price (new): $7,499 CAD
Comparable bikes: Kawasaki Ninja 250R, Kawasaki Ninja 500R, Suzuki GS500F

Currently announced for the Canadian and Japanese markets, the 2011 Kawasaki Ninja 400R steps in to fill the lofty shoes of the departed (and sorely missed) Ninja 500R.  It maintains all of the technology and features of its bigger brother, the Ninja 650R, but with a smaller engine and price point (the 400R is approximately $1,200 cheaper than the 650R).  It promises to offer new riders plenty of thrills and good times while remaining approachable and easily-controlled- key elements of an effective entry-level motorcycle.

More Information About the 2011 Kawasaki Ninja 400R:

This all-new Kawasaki weighs in at 447.5 lbs, just 2 lbs shy of of the Ninja 650R.  With an estimated 42 horsepower on tap there is no reason to believe that the 400R will be a slouch, though that is 17 horsepower less than the 500R carries.  With less horsepower and more junk in the trunk the 400R isn’t going to be as peppy as the as the 500R, but we suspect that it will perform just as admirably in the twisties thanks to the updated suspension and braking hardware.

The Ninja 400R is fully faired, though the Japanese market will have the option of the ER-4N (the ER-4N won’t be available in Canada unfortunately).  Currently, it is available in two colors: Metallic Spark Black / Flat Super Black and Lime Green / Flat Super Black.  Both color options are two-tone schemes.

The chassis is based on the same technology employed by the 650R: high-tensile steel frame paired with an upright riding position and an under-engine muffler to keep the center of gravity right where it needs to be in order for a rider to get the maximum amount of fun out of this machine.

We won’t be able to get on one until spring of next year, so watch for our review!

Related posts:

1. 2011 Kawasaki Ninja 400R Impressions
2. Kawasaki Ninja 650R
3. Kawasaki Ninja 500R

The key to successful (and safe) riding is patience.  There are some things about motorcycles that will always ring true, just by virtue of the fact that a motorcycle is effectively an engine with wheels… and that’s it.  99.95% of the time your motorcycle will be faster than a car; you will encounter drivers who don’t see you when they are turning, merging, or are otherwise trying to steal your spot in traffic; you will bite off more than you can chew when you mash the throttle.  These are realities that every motorcycle rider, regardless of experience, has to face.

That doesn’t mean that riding a motorcycle is hazardous to your health (despite what many people would have you believe).  Rather, it means that as a new rider it is your responsibility to ensure that you are adequately prepared to handle the task with confidence.  In order to be confident you need to be confident in four key areas: safety, training/skill, licensing, and your motorcycle selection.

Motorcycle Safety

This is the most important aspect of riding a bike that you’re going to have to get down pat.  Unlike a car, there is no steel cage protecting you.  If you get into an accident there is very little between you and the pavement.  For that reason along it is crucial that you are as safe as possible.

• Have all of the right gear - You will have seen this several times on this website by now, and here it is again: always ride ATGATT.

• Ensure that you are as prepared as possible before you ride - We highly recommend you read a motorcycle training guide (Get Ready to Pass has our top recommendation) as they break down, in detail, everything you’re going to need to know to learn how to ride a motorcycle.

• Do not ride with passengers until you have a lot of riding time under your belt - Many new riders don’t realize just how much a passenger changes the way a motorcycle behaves.  Are you ready for a passenger?

As always, stay within the posted speed limits and don’t override your comfort zone.  If you’re riding in a group and the group is moving at a pace that you aren’t 100% comfortable with slow down and stay safe.

Motorcycle Training/Skill

You weren’t a perfect driver the first time you got in a car, and you aren’t going to be a perfect rider the first time you hop on a motorcycle.  Expect to spend some time learning how to control your bike, as well as discovering where your limits are.

• Read a motorcycle training guide - We hammer this point to death, but the fact still remains that motorcycle training guides are the best way to acclimate yourself to a motorcycle before you get on and ride.  We recommend Get Ready to Pass ($27 w/videos) or MotoLearn ($15 without videos).  Both will save you time spent searching the net for information, not to mention that they will help you feel more comfortable when you first decide to go for a ride.

• Practice in a safe environment - Hopping on the freeway for your first ride is not a great idea.  Practice in a parking lot until you are comfortable with the basics.  Once you’re comfortable with slow-speed riding, move from a parking lot to residential side roads that are infrequently used.  Hit the highway once you are comfortable with the bike overall.

• Take a motorcycle safety course - This is part and parcel with reading a training guide, and we recommend that you do both.  Most motorcycle safety courses cost a few hundred dollars and they will walk you through all the basics.  Not only that, but most include accident evasion- in our opinion, a lifesaver of a course.

Motorcycle Licensing

Never ride your motorcycle on public roadways without having the appropriate license and insurance.  Just don’t do it.

Motorcycle Selection

If you’re reading Beginner Motorcycle Reviews you probably already know the recommendation that we are going to make.  Do yourself a favor and start small.  Check out the top 10 motorcycles for new riders and see our recommendations.

• Don’t buy a crotch rocket - Should your first car have 600 horsepower?  No.  Should your first bike have 120 horsepower?  Absolutely not.  Buy a rocket after you’ve had a year or two of riding experience.

• Don’t buy a heavy hog - The heavier the bike the harder it is to control.  Cruisers are sweet (we love the Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom), but the bigger they are the harder they (potentially) fall.

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There are a lot of variables that will determine which helmet you purchase: price, safety rating (DOT and Snell), appearance, and comfort.  The most important variable here is safety, so we’re going to focus on that.  It goes without saying that your helmet is a crucial piece of your gear, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t choose a helmet that looks great.

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), over 11,000 motorcyclists that were involved in fatal accidents between 1984 and 2004 would still be alive today if they were wearing a helmet while riding. Considering that motorcyclists are 32% more likely to face a fatal accident than car drivers, it’s immensely important that a high quality helmet is worn each and every time you ride.

As you’ll find when you go helmet hunting, there are two standards in place that are used to determine the effectiveness of a helmet: DOT (Department of Transportation), and Snell.  These ratings were created to offer an unbiased, objective rating of certifying helmet safety.  This allows consumers to make conscious, well-informed decisions by removing any bias that may have been placed on the sale by the merchants selling the helmets.

DOT Helmet Certification

The Department of Transportation conducts a very basic impact test.  Using a dummy head placed inside a helmet, testers drop the helmet from a height of ten feet.  During this test, no more than 400g’s of force can be applied upon impact.  If the helmet exceeds 400g’s, it fails.

However, be aware that most helmets on the market are not actually tested.  The DOT rating is rather ambiguous in that a manufacturer can claim a helmet to be DOT certified if they “feel” that it will pass the certification process.  The Department of Transportation will randomly pull helmets in for testing, but it does this to a small sample bunch that certainly does not represent most helmets that carry the DOT rating.

Snell Helmet Certification

Unlike DOT certification, Snell certification is voluntary for the manufacturer and comes at a cost to the manufacturer as well.  A helmet manufacturer will submit their helmet for Snell certification, where it will undergo much more intensive testing (covering areas from impact protection, flame resistance, shell penetration, etc.).  Specifically, Snell cites the following areas as critical for helmet safety:

• Impact management - How well does the helmet protect against collisions with large objects?
• Helmet positional stability - Does the helmet stay in place?
• Retention system strength - Are the chin straps, latches, and other associated equipment strong enough to hold the helmet to the head throughout the impact?
• Extent of protection - How much area is protected by the helmet?

A helmet that is Snell certified can be seen as a much safer piece of equipment when compared to a DOT certified helmet.  While both offer substantial protection, a Snell certified helmet has had extensive testing in order to ensure that fact.

The Bottom Line

When choosing a helmet, always choose the option that makes the most sense for you.  Ensure that it fits correctly, is comfortable, is at least DOT certified, and that you are confident that it will protect you in the event of a crash.  However, we strongly recommend that you purchase a Snell certified helmet for the best possible protection.

Remember, it’s the only thing between your head and the road.

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