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DOT and Snell Motorcycle Helmets: What Does DOT and Snell Mean?

Cameron Martel — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 23:34:36 +0000

If you’re a new rider it’s important that you have the basics covered: a good motorcycle to ride on, all the gear you need (and make sure you’re riding ATGATT), and a good head on your shoulders. Your helmet is the most important piece of safety equipment you have, and ensuring that you have a high quality helmet will ensure you have the best chance of survival in the event of a crash.

There are a lot of variables that will determine which helmet you purchase: price, safety rating (DOT and Snell), appearance, and comfort. The most important variable here is safety, so we’re going to focus on that. It goes without saying that your helmet is a crucial piece of your gear, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t choose a helmet that looks great.

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), over 11,000 motorcyclists that were involved in fatal accidents between 1984 and 2004 would still be alive today if they were wearing a helmet while riding. Considering that motorcyclists are 32% more likely to face a fatal accident than car drivers, it’s immensely important that a high quality helmet is worn each and every time you ride.

As you’ll find when you go helmet hunting, there are two standards in place that are used to determine the effectiveness of a helmet: DOT (Department of Transportation), and Snell. These ratings were created to offer an unbiased, objective rating of certifying helmet safety. This allows consumers to make conscious, well-informed decisions by removing any bias that may have been placed on the sale by the merchants selling the helmets.

DOT Helmet Certification

The Department of Transportation conducts a very basic impact test. Using a dummy head placed inside a helmet, testers drop the helmet from a height of ten feet. During this test, no more than 400g’s of force can be applied upon impact. If the helmet exceeds 400g’s, it fails.

However, be aware that most helmets on the market are not actually tested. The DOT rating is rather ambiguous in that a manufacturer can claim a helmet to be DOT certified if they “feel” that it will pass the certification process. The Department of Transportation will randomly pull helmets in for testing, but it does this to a small sample bunch that certainly does not represent most helmets that carry the DOT rating.

Snell Helmet Certification

Unlike DOT certification, Snell certification is voluntary for the manufacturer and comes at a cost to the manufacturer as well. A helmet manufacturer will submit their helmet for Snell certification, where it will undergo much more intensive testing (covering areas from impact protection, flame resistance, shell penetration, etc.). Specifically, Snell cites the following areas as critical for helmet safety:

Impact management - How well does the helmet protect against collisions with large objects?
Helmet positional stability - Does the helmet stay in place?
Retention system strength - Are the chin straps, latches, and other associated equipment strong enough to hold the helmet to the head throughout the impact?
Extent of protection - How much area is protected by the helmet?

A helmet that is Snell certified can be seen as a much safer piece of equipment when compared to a DOT certified helmet. While both offer substantial protection, a Snell certified helmet has had extensive testing in order to ensure that fact.

The Bottom Line

When choosing a helmet, always choose the option that makes the most sense for you. Ensure that it fits correctly, is comfortable, is at least DOT certified, and that you are confident that it will protect you in the event of a crash. However, we strongly recommend that you purchase a Snell certified helmet for the best possible protection.

Remember, it’s the only thing between your head and the road.

Related Blogs

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Learning to Ride Sportbikes: A Beginners Guide – Part 2

Cameron Martel — Sun, 06 Jun 2010 20:38:46 +0000

This is part two of a three part guide. Read Learning to Ride Sportbikes: A Beginners Guide – Part 1 if you haven’t already.

In the first part of this guide we talked about the basic pre-work involved in getting ready to ride your new sportbike. Having a clear, positive mindset will ensure that you approach the motorcycle with no apprehensions. If you are too nervous the first time you get on a bike it could spell disaster! Remember: the motorcycle itself is only going to do what it’s been told to do. As the rider, you have complete control over what it does and when.

At this point you should already have your gear (and be riding ATGATT). Ideally, you will have read a training manual as well (giving you the basics of how to shift, where crucial components are, etc.). Now it’s time to get on to the actual process of riding.

Before We Start the Motorcycle…

We’re going to assume that since you are learning to ride a sportbike that you’ve never even started one. Luckily, this process is simple and straight forward. However, before we start the motorcycle we are going to complete a visual check of the motorcycle to ensure that it is in good operating order. The exact process is identified in the Get Ready to Pass videos pretty well. To keep it short, ensure that you check the following:

Fluid levels – Ensure that the engine oil is in good condition and within acceptable levels. Also check the brake fluid and ensure that it is also filled to the appropriate amount.

Tire pressure - A flat tire on a motorcycle is bad news. Make sure that your tires are inflated to the appropriate amount, as per what is stated on the tire sidewall. If you are using the OEM tire from the manufacturer, the correct tire pressure will also be found in the owners manual.

Signal, headlight, and brake lights - On a motorcycle, visibility is king. Ensure that your brake lights and turn signals work properly. Also check to ensure the headlight works correctly.

Once you’ve performed your walk around you are now in a good position to actually go and start the motorcycle. Do not ride the motorcycle unless you possess the required permit.

There are three main components that you will need to know of when starting the motorcycle: the clutch lever, engine kill switch, and engine ignition switch. Of course, you will need to ensure that you have the handbrake depressed so that the motorcycle does not move during ignition.

(Click for full size)

The engine kill switch and ignition switch are usually found right next to each other. If you click on the image to the right you will see what they look like. Typically, the engine kill switch is red and can be flipped up or down. In the picture to the left, the switch is “off” when it is down, and “on” when it is flicked up. When the kill switch is set to “on” the motorcycle will not start.

The ignition switch has a picture of an arrow in a circle with an electric bolt inside of it. This switch is used to actually start the engine on an electric-ignition motorcycle (almost all new motorcycles use an electronic ignition). Assuming that the engine kill switch is set to “off”, the key is in the ignition position, and the clutch lever is depressed, pressing the ignition switch will start the motorcycle.

(Click for full size)

The motorcycle clutch lever is the lever that is used to engage and disengage the clutch. When the lever is depressed, the motorcycle is free to be started or change gears. Typically, the clutch lever is located on the left handlebar, as illustrated in the image to the left.

The clutch lever will have some resistance to it when you attempt to depress it. This is to ensure that the clutch doesn’t accidentally engage when it wasn’t intended to, as well as provide feedback as to where the friction point is when engaging first gear. If you’ve ever driven a manual transmission on a car, the friction point will feel very similar.

Before you attempt to start your motorcycle, make sure you know where all of these switches are.

(Click for full size)

The handbrake is the lever on the right handlebar, with the footbrake being the lever on the lower right side of the motorcycle near your feet. These are the only two ways you have to stop your motorcycle, and as you ride, you will use them harmoniously. If there is one thing that you do before riding, it is learning where brakes are and how “stiff” they feel when used.

Obviously, if either brake is in disrepair the motorcycle is not fit to ride.

So, now we know where the handbrake, rear brake pedal, engine kill switch, and ignition switches are. Remember, each motorcycle may be a little different so ensure that you locate these items on yours. Once you’ve got that down pat it’s time to move on and start the motorcycle.

Starting Your Motorcycle

Here is a helpful video that very clearly identifies how to start a motorcycle:

Fast Tube by Casper

If you are unable to view the video, simply follow this process:

Apply the rear brake pedal - This will prevent the motorcycle from moving during the operation, as well as keep it in place should you accidentally have it in gear when you release the clutch lever

Turn the key to the “start/ignition” position - Typically, this is two notches past the position it is in when you first put the key inside the ignition cylinder. The next position is “accessory”, which will power on the lights, with “start/ignition” being the second position.

Ensure the gearbox is in “neutral” - You will know this immediately, as a green neutral light will illuminate in the instrument panel.

Ensure that the engine kill switch is set to “off” - If the kill switch is engaged you will not be able to start the motorcycle.

Depress the clutch lever - This engages the clutch.

Press the ignition switch - This will activate the starter and start the motorcycle.

If required, use the choke - The “choke” is a lever that is used to restrict airflow to the engine. Use the choke as required to get the motorcycle running. Once the motorcycle is running smoothly, release the choke.

Congratulations! Your motorcycle should now be started and putting along beautifully.

This concludes part two of the guide. In part three we will learn how to shift gears, get the motorcycle moving, and how to turn the motorcycle.

2010 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom

Cameron Martel — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 23:03:00 +0000

Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom Video Walk Around and Startup

Scroll down for our comprehensive review of the 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom.

Fast Tube by Casper

Summary:

(Click for full size)

Engine Size: 903cc
Price (new): $9,899 CDN/$8,349 USD
Comparable bikes: Honda VT750C Spirit, Suzuki GZ250 Marauder, Honda CMX250C Rebel

The 903cc liquid-cooled v-twin engine powering this beautiful mid-size cruiser provides enough “oomph” to get the Vulcan 900 moving, which the sleek and sexy styling is quick to impress. For someone looking to get into a cruiser, but is somewhat apprehensive of a “big bike”, the Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom is our ideal choice.

It’s beautiful, it’s powerful, and it’s damn fun to ride. What more do you want in a bike?

Our 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom Review:

Riding the Vulcan 900 Custom was like cruising on a cloud. The suspension is comfortable, yet precise enough to provide ample warning should you decide to be a little overzealous in your lean-in. The pipes project a deep, throaty roar that is satisfying each and every time you give the potent twin some gas. It’s hard not to be “that guy” at the stop light revving the engine.

Alas, not all Vulcans are created the same. In the case of the Kawasaki Vulcan 900, there are three different varieties: the classic, classic LT, and custom. Each is based on the same excellent hardware and chassis, with mostly cosmetic changes defining the differences among the different types. In the case of the Vulcan 900 Custom, the cosmetic differences are astounding.

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The 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic features traditionally styled wheels, body panels, and fenders. The smooth, round lines are accented by tasteful chrome, including a “3D” chrome accent on the gas tank, handlebars, and instrument cluster.

The Vulcan 900 Classic also features a two-piece seat, allowing for more comfortable passenger riding. The Vulcan 900 Classic does not have a passenger back rest as standard hardware. It also does not have a windshield or saddlebags as standard hardware, either.

For those looking for a more touring-oriented motorcycle, the Vulcan 900 Classic LT is likely the better choice.

(Click for full size)

The 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT adds a windshield, a passenger back rest (with saddlebags), and two-tone paint. Otherwise, it features the same steel-chassis at the Vulcan 900 Classic, as well as the same wheels. The appearance is not quite as “traditional” as the Classic model, but rather more touring oriented (and obviously so).

The Vulcan 900 Classic LT is a great choice for a new rider who is looking for the comfort and riding qualities of a cruiser, but also needs the versatility of a more touring-focused motorcycle.

The two-tone paint comes in a variety of colors and shades.

(Click for full size)

The 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom is much more aggressively styled, with a large 21″ wheel on the front and the widest rear tire in the class. The headlight is smaller, the windshield is removed, and the more passenger friendly two-piece seat is replaced by one-piece design. Several accessories can be ordered from Kawasaki for the custom as well.

The Vulcan 900 Custom seems to appeal to a younger crowd, where the motorcycle is more for leisure than for transportation. It’s affordable price tag, combined with great looks and fantastic riding dynamics, have made the Vulcan 900 Custom quite popular.

So, how does the 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom ride? Beautifully. Sublime, in fact. It’s a balance between brisk acceleration and a smooth, relaxed ride. Bumps in the road aren’t as jarring as they would be in a sport bike, and thanks to the relative light weight of the Vulcan chassis, the custom is easy to manipulate and control.

During our ride, the only hiccup that we had was when we had to mash the brakes to avoid running a red light. The rear end slight slightly sideways when we accidentally locked the rear brake. We imagine that, as you become more comfortable with the bike and it’s limits, the chances of you locking up the rear tire when coming to a stop would be pretty low.

The Vulcan 900 Custom exudes an image of comfort and style, and when you’re commanding it there is a sense of belonging and place. The bike just feels good, and at no point did we find it intimidating or menacing. For a new rider, the ability to carefully manipulate the throttle and not have to worry about sudden power spikes or wheelies is a beautiful thing.

That’s not to say that the Vulcan 900 is a bike for learners only. With nearly 60lb-ft of torque on tap, the Vulcan 900 can certainly get up and go (and sound damn fine while doing it). Many riders find the Vulcan 900 to be their first, and only, motorcycle. It’s track record of proven reliability, ease of maintenance, and comfort have made it a popular choice among those who value those qualities in a motorcycle.

The Bottom Line:

It’s not a big Harley, nor is it a 1,500cc cross-country cruiser. At 903cc, the Vulcan 900 Custom provides all the jam, all the pizazz, and all the style of a larger cruiser, but at a fraction of the weight and cost. The fuel-injected v-twin is smooth, and vibrations are kept to a minimum thanks to a series of design innovations from Kawasaki.

Is it a great bike, and would I recommend one to someone looking for an entry-level cruiser that doesn’t appear or sound entry-level? Whether you’re just learning how to ride a motorcycle, or you’re looking for something that will keep a smile firmly planted on your face, the answer remains the same: oh, yea.

Top 10 Motorcycles Songs

Cameron Martel — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 01:46:03 +0000

By Iwan Williams

1. Meatloaf – Bat out of Hell

Released in 1979, and again in 1993 it was written by Jim Steinman with lead vocals from Meatloaf. Steinman was insistent that the song should contain the sound of a motorbike engine being revved, and complained to producer Todd Rundgren in the final recording session when it was not added. Rather than use a recording of a real motorcycle, Rundgren himself played the section on guitar, leading straight into the solo without a break.

2. The Doors – Riders on the storm

Taken from their 1971 album, LA woman this song reached number 22 spot on the UK singles chart. The song was inspired by Ghost Riders in the Sky: A Cowboy Legend.”

3. The Eagles – Life in the Fast Lane

This is the third single from the Album Hotel California which was written by Joe Walsh, Glenn Frey and Don Henley and reached number 11 in the Billboard Hot 100

4. Steppenwolf – Born to Be Wild

Born to be wild was Initially released in 1968 and was used on the soundtrack for the famous motorcycle movie Easy rider, staring Jack Nicholson and Peter Fonda riding Harley Davidson Hydraglide bikes from 1949, 1950 and 1952

5. Bruce Springsteen – Born to Run

Written in Long Branch, New Jersey in 1974 the song is a love letter to a girl called Wendy. Springsteen himself is a celebrated bike fan. He recently auctioned off his Harley Davidson at the NY Comedy Festival Event ‘Stand Up for Heroes: A Benefit for the Bob Woodruff Family Fund‘ for US$ 85,000.

6. Rush – Ghost Rider

This song is based on the motorcycle story Ghost Rider: Travels on the Healing Road. by Rush’s drummer and lyricist Neil Peart. Peart embarked on a 14 month 55,000 mile motorcycle journey across America after losing two of his family members.

7. Manic Street Preachers – Motorcycle Emptiness

This single by Welsh Rock band Manic Street preachers was inspired by a book by SE Hilton called Rumble Fish and is about biker gang culture. The lyrics have been interpreted by some as an attach consumer/capitalist lifestyle and how young people are expected to conform.

8. Shangri-Las – Leader of the Pack

This song became number one on the Billboard Hot 100 in November 1964 and is about a girl called Betty who is seeking her parent’s disapproval by dating Jimmy, the leader of a motorcycle gang. Her parents claim he is from the “the wrong side of town” and will be a bad influence on her.

9. Bob Seger – Roll Me Away

Roll Me Away was written in 1982 by Bob Seger on the album The Distance by Bob Seger and the Silver Bullet Band. Tit reached number 27 on the Billboard Hot 100 char

10. Prince- Purple Rain

The song Purple Rain, taken from the album of the same name reached number 2 in the America charts. The album was thought by many as among the best rock albums ever it was ranked by Rolling Stone Magazine as the second best album of the 1980s.

The album cover features Prince riding a Custom Honda Hondamatic, indecently this bike was the first Honda to have automatic transmission.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Iwan_Williams
http://EzineArticles.com/?Top-10-Motorcycles-Songs&id=4308397

Learning to Ride Sportbikes: A Beginners Guide – Part 1

Cameron Martel — Fri, 30 Apr 2010 18:39:14 +0000

This is part one of a three part guide.

Before you read any further, know this: there is absolutely no replacement for getting on a motorcycle and learning through experience. No, I am not saying that you need to hop on your bike and go for a ride down the highway. What I am saying is that the best way to learn how to ride a motorcycle is to get on one. That being said, there are a lot of things that you can do to ensure that your first experience on a motorcycle is a positive one.

Unlike a car, you don’t have the opportunity to ride with someone and have them coach you while you’re riding. A motorcycle is an inherently personal machine, making instruction difficult. Ultimately, it’s up to you to take the initiative to learn how to ride.

Learning to Ride Sportbikes: Pre-work

Before you hop on a motorcycle and decide to go for a cruise by the lake, take some time to mentally prepare yourself for what you are going to be doing. Riding on two wheels is different than riding on four. It takes some patience, and a whole lot of caution, to ensure that your ride is a safe and successful one.

That is why there is immense value in making the investment in a motorcycle training guide. A good guide will cost you less than $30 and give you all of the information you need to make better, more informed decisions when riding. Our recommended guides are

Get Ready to Pass - Priced at $27, includes videos and other media. Best value.
MotoLearn - Priced at $17, it does not have video. Good buy if you don’t want to spend $27.

If you’ve opted out of reading a guide, perhaps spend some time digging through the internet. Whatever you do, ensure that when you get on that motorcycle you’re confident and ready to ride. Overcoming the mental barriers inhibiting success is 95% of the process required to be successful the first time you hop on a motorcycle.

Learning to Ride Sportbikes: Your Gear

Everyone knows that you need a helmet to ride a motorcycle, but what about your other gear? If you’re smart, you’ll ride ATGATT. You should also have, at the minimum:

A high quality helmet - This is self explanatory.
Riding gloves - Work gloves are not a replacement.
Riding boots – A high quality pair of boots will protect your feet and ankles much better than shoes.
A riding jacket – A riding jacket offers spine protection, elbow/shoulder protection, and is more durable in the event of a fall.

Your gear is not an area where you can afford to cheap out on. It is the only layer of protection, aside from defensive riding techniques and remaining alert at all times, that you have in the event of a fall. Spend the extra money on gear that is high quality, durable, and comfortable. Ideally, your gear will be a one-time investment that will ensure your safety and comfort while you’re riding.

This concludes part one of the guide. In part two we learn what to do before we start the motorcycle, as well as how to start the motorcycle. Read part two.

BeginnerMotorcycleReviews.com Website Redesign Coming This Week

Cameron Martel — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 16:35:20 +0000

Just FYI to everyone who checks out BeginnerMotorcycleReviews.com that a redesign is happening this week. This means that certain functions may not work properly until we get things ironed out, and there may be a period of time where things look/appear funny and/or don’t work at all.

But, the good news is we only have to do this once

Bad News for your Motorcycle: Fall is Coming!

Countersteering. What is it?

Cameron Martel — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 20:31:40 +0000

The term counter-steering means different things to different people. Before I started to ride motorcycles, it meant turning the wheel the the same way the rear of the car was going in order to recover from a skid. On a motorcycle, the term is used to describe how to initiate a turn.

I am not going to bore you with all the details of how and why it works, but I will try to give you a high level understand of what is happening. A simple way to understand counter steering is to say that if you want to turn right, turn you front wheel to the left by pushing the right handle bar forward. Of course, the opposite rings true if you want to turn left. Push the left bar forward.

If we go back to your high school days, you will remember the old adage that your physics teacher told you. “For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.” When turning a motorcycle using countersteering, you are looking to achieve the “opposite reaction” of the equation.

The Basic Premise of Counter-Steering on a Motorcycle

At speeds above 20km/hr (roughly 12mph) it’s no longer feasible to turn the handlebars and expect to remain upright. This is the premise of leaning in to a turn: the shift in weight causes the bike to turn in the direction you lean. This is also called “push steering” or “lean turning”.

This is very important!
One of the reasons for crashing is because the rider did not lean enough into the turn. The basic forces at work will ensure that the motorcycle remains upright, so don’t be afraid to lean. Can you cause the motorcycle to slide by leaning too much? Yes, but the angle would have to be severe (deeper than the lean-in you see from motorcycle racers).

In other words: lean the bike over while turning!

The forces at work (gyroscopic forces) will always ensure that your motorcycle remains upright, as it takes more force for you to dump the bike over than it does to keep it upright. If you’re still unsure, click to read more about motorcycle gyroscopic forces.

The Three Step Guide to Effective Counter-Steering

Step One: Push Down On the Handlebars in the Direction You Want to Turn – This will cause the motorcycle to lean in that direction, upsetting it’s physical balance and hence causing it to turn.

Step Two: Turn Your Head in the Direction You Want to Go - Keep your eyesight focused on where you want to be. Ensure that you do this all throughout the turn.

Step Three: Exit the Turn Smoothly and Apply Throttle if Necessary - After you have made the turn, apply throttle and exit!

That’s all there is to it! It’s best to try this in a relatively safe area before you hit the streets, so try it in an empty parking lot (or similar). Once you get over your initial apprehension it becomes a smooth, natural movement.

Ride safe!

Are You Ready For A Passenger?

Top 10 Motorcycles for New Riders: 2010

Cameron Martel — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 03:07:40 +0000

A couple weeks ago we posted our thoughts on the 2010 Calgary Motorcycle Show (check out part one, and part two). As a sort of spiritual follow up, we’ve decided to post a list of the best motorcycles for new riders. We’ve broken down ten bikes into three categories based on a myriad of factors (size/weight, speed/power, learning curve, and price). If you’re not really sure what we consider a beginner motorcycle, we break it down into the categories above:

Size and Weight - The bigger and heavier a motorcycle is, the harder it will be initially to control. However, a heavier motorcycle does have it’s advantages (namely, it is more stable when cruising on the highway). Lighter motorcycles can be “flicked” around easier, giving a new rider that lean-in confidence that is crucial for safe riding.

Speed and Power - A 10-second motorcycle isn’t a beginner motorcycle. It doesn’t matter how you try to justify it. If your new motorcycle has 100+ horsepower, can fly through the quarter mile in 12 seconds or less, and can pop wheelies at will, it’s not a beginner motorcycle. But, this doesn’t mean a beginner motorcycle is slow: a Kawasaki Ninja 650R or Suzuki SV650 will both nail a quarter mile in the high 11-second range. They both also have very predictable, controllable power bands and handling dynamics. Even a Kawasaki Ninja 500R will do the quarter mile in and around the 12.8 second range- compare that to a $50,000 sports car! What’s important is that a beginner-friendly motorcycle easily allows the rider to control the speed while they are learning and honing their skills.

Learning Curve - This one is simple. How hard is the motorcycle to get on and ride? Does a quick twitch of the throttle result in a wheelie? Does the bike “forgive” minor mistakes?

Price - We looks at price vs. value here, not just the bottom line. How much motorcycle is a new rider getting for their buck?

Best Street and Sport Bikes for New Riders

1) Kawasaki Ninja 650R OR Suzuki SV650S

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What’s this? A TIE? Correct. Both motorcycles are the best “first big bikes” out there. Their v-twin/parallel-twin power-plants are responsive, controllable, and a lot of fun to wind out once you’re comfortable with the bike. Packing around 75 horsepower, these motorcycles are far from slow. In fact, they are favored by experienced riders for predictable handling and comfortable riding dynamics.

We fell in love with the Kawasaki Ninja 650R after spending some time with it on the highway. Smooth, comfortable, and strongly positioned on the road. We felt confident when we rode it, and that confidence allowed us to have a really good time with it.

(Click for full size)

The Suzuki SV650 has a bit of a cult following for that very reason: they can walk all over 600cc super-sport bikes on the track thanks do the riders ability to confidently predict where and when to lay down power. Make no mistake: the fuel-injected engines that power these two machines are very capable. A new rider will have to take some time to get comfortable with them, but once you’ve given the motorcycle its due, be prepared for a wild ride.

Both the Ninja 650R and SV650 have been around for a while, giving you a good assortment to dig through when shopping. Above all else, make sure you look for a bike that has been maintained and taken care of. These bikes, while not requiring religious maintenance schedules, need to be maintained like anything else. Find that hidden gem, however, and you’re in for a real treat!

2) Kawasaki Ninja 500R

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Our favorite 500cc motorcycle, this “little” Ninja is a real treat to ride regardless of how experienced a rider you are. Lightweight, economical, and a blast to flog around through the twisties, the Ninja 500R will reward new riders who are willing to test its limits with a machine that can hang with some of the best through the corners, cost next to nothing to insure, and get excellent fuel economy. Being dirt cheap is simply a bonus.

If you checked out Craigslist or Kijiji you’d probably find at least a dozen acceptable examples of the Ninja 500R for sale for a pittance. They haven’t changed the basic design of the bike in over 20 years, so if you find one that’s been taken care of, jump on it!

3) Suzuki GS500F

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The Ninja is slightly faster, but that doesn’t mean that this capable Suzuki should be forgotten about. It will get up and ride should that be the bidding of its owner, and it will reward a new rider with a stable, forgiving machine that can still take a beating. Feel like doing some heavy lean-in while cornering? Go to town- this Suzuki LOVES it. Flick the throttle, hit 60mph in about 4 seconds, and laugh as you $4,000 motorcycle leaves $40,000 sports cars in the dust.

Like the Ninja, the GS500F has been around since 1994 and hasn’t changed too much since its inception. Find one that has been taken care of and you’ll have a great time!

4) Yamaha FZ6R

(Click for full size)

We love the FZ6R. It’s entry to the market last year proved it to be a very capable machine, worthy of respect from any rider. Let’s face the facts here: it’s a *fantastic* looking motorcycle; it has an upright, comfortable seating position; it uses a detuned engine from the last generation of the venerable R6; it can be whisper-quiet or scream like a raving banshee.

So, why isn’t it higher on our list? Simple: being a new entry to the market, it’s relatively unproven. Plus, while it is truly a magnificent machine, the Ninja 650R/SV650 have both proven themselves time and time again as “new rider friendly”. But, if your heart is set on the Yamaha FZ6R, don’t even think twice about it- buy it, ride it, love it.

Best Dual-Sport and Motards for New Riders

1) Yamaha TW200

Despite having a five-speed transmission (where both the Suzuki DR200SE and the Honda CRF230M have six-speeds), the Yamaha TW200 is sitting here as our most recommended dual-sport for the 2010 year. It’s not particularly pretty (is any dual-sport really all that pretty?), and it’s not what we’d call fast (it does have a whopping 16 horsepower though), and it doesn’t do anything any better than any of the other dual-sports. So why is it number one for us?

If there’s one word that more people need to incorporate into their daily lives, it’s balance. The TW200 is just that: a well balanced motorcycle that enables its rider to hit the trails, cruise the city streets, and do so in nearly any combination. Tire choices not withstanding (dirt-tire “knobbies” aren’t exactly confidence inspiring on city roads), the TW200 is the Honda Civic of the dual-sport world: it does everything asked of it in a competent and capable manner. Just don’t ask it to hit anything over 70mph.

2) Honda CRF230M

If you want all the advantages of owning a dual-sport (being able to hit the trails and the highway, for example), but also want the ability to cruise gingerly, the Honda CRF230M is a great machine. It’s got clean lines, great looks, and is backed by Honda’s legendary reliability. We would have rated it higher on this list (which, lets face it, is the end all be all list of 2010…. ha), but the CRF230M doesn’t feel as stable on the trials as some of the other dual-sports we’ve ridden.

The CRF230M is lightweight – 276lbs – and severely underpowered (unless you think 14 horsepower is the bees nees), but that doesn’t change the fact that it does its job effectively. It’s six-speed is geared a little short, giving this Honda a little more “oomph” then you’d expect from it’s little power plant.

The single biggest quality this bike has going for it, however, is its fuel economy. Honda claims near 90mpg, and multiple sources have done testing to validate Honda’s claims. 90mpg? Maybe not, but it routinely gets pretty darn close.

3) Suzuki DR200SE

If someone used the word “intimidating” to describe the Suzuki DR200SE we’d probably have to give them a blank stare and check their forehead for a fever. With an appearance striking similar to your typical dirt bike, the Suzuki DR200SE is the polar opposite of intimidating. It’s small, light weight, with a low seat height and none of the fancy (expensive) gimmicks that some of its brethren share. It runs like a top and will likely never give you any kind of problem.

This Suzuki shines off-road, where the ground is anything but asphalt. Dirt, sand, mud, creek bed, gravel? No problem. The DR200SE eats it up!

We’d have rated this motorcycle higher, but with a top speed of around 60mph, it’s fairly limited in terms of both the distance it’s able to travel as well as its on-road practicality. Not that it can’t be done, per say… it’s just that there are bikes out there that do it a little better. Ultimately, it’s small size and inviting posture are the reasons it’s ranked here. Anyone, regardless of age, size, or comfort level with motorcycles, can hop on a DR200SE and have a blast. Isn’t that what dual-sports are supposed to be all about?

Best Cruisers for New Riders

1) Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom

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Do you want a cruiser that looks good, sounds great, has plenty of get up and go, but isn’t so heavy that it will nearly kill you the first time you take it into a sharp corner? The Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom may be the bike for you. It’s a “big bike” that’s not really a “big bike”. Does that make sense?

The last time we rode a Vulcan 900 Custom, it was a 2009 model. It had all the qualities of a cruiser that we wanted to see (size, sound, comfort, ease of use, etc.), but it didn’t have neither the intimidating price tag nor the intimidating heavy weight. The very first time we rode it we felt comfortable leaning it into corners, testing the brake limits, and found ourselves thoroughly enjoying the bike overall.

Is it the best cruiser out there? Maybe not, but it sure is a real treat for a new rider.

2) Honda VT750C Spirit

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If starting at 900cc seems a bit daunting, this 749cc Honda may fit the bill. Like the Vulcan, you get the image and sound of a “big bike” without the heavy weight or price tag to go with it. This makes it ideal for a first bike, as it’s a bit more forgiving than a larger motorcycle.

Everything from the chrome pipes to the wire spoked wheels lend to the impressive imagine this Honda portrays, and it’s ultra-low seat height make it ideal for shorter riders. All in all, for under $9,000 CDN / $8,250 USD you can have a brand new, capable, fun motorcycle that looks and sounds great.

Like the Vulcan, the VT750C Spirit may not be the best cruiser on the street, but for a new rider, it’s a very fun and exciting one. If the Vulcan’s too big, but something like a Suzuki GZ250 Marauder is too small, this Honda should fit the bill nicely.

3) Suzuki GZ250 Marauder

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At 250cc, the Suzuki GZ250 Marauder sure won’t be winning any races, but that’s not where the appeal of this motorcycle lies. This motorcycle is perfect for a new rider who wants a comfortable seating position, but doesn’t want the power, weight, or price of a larger motorcycle. In that sense, the Marauder is a great machine- especially when you consider what it does and how much it asks in return to do it.

It’s small and low to the ground, making it easy for just about anyone to ride it. It won’t launch the front tire high into the air, and mashing the throttle won’t send you flailing off the back. It’s forgiving, it’s adaptable, but more importantly, it’s approachable.

If you want a cruiser, but you don’t want something that you’re going to scare yourself on, the GZ250 Marauder is it.

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The Suzuki SV650 as a First Bike: Our Thoughts

Cameron Martel — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 23:34:28 +0000

One of the first motorcycles I owned was a 2008 Suzuki SV650S. It was what I rode immediately after selling my 1999 Kawasaki Ninja 500R (probably the best beginner motorcycle I’ve ever ridden, by the way. Learn more about the Kawasaki Ninja 500R here), and it was the motorcycle that took riding from a hobby to a full-blown addiction. It’s balance, poise, power, and curb appeal drew me in a little more each time I rode it.

Then, one day, I sold it. As always, it was time to move on to bigger and better things. In my case, it was the desire to move away from a V-twin (for various personal reasons).

The Suzuki SV650 for a New Rider

One of the many things I liked about my ’08 SV was that it was a fast bike – sometimes, a little too fast – but only when I wanted it to be. I found that riding a super-sport always resulted in me being cautious of laying into the throttle for fear that the motorcycle would go crazy and try to take off on me. While I appreciate a good wheelie, I prefer both wheels on the ground when I ride.

The SV650 was very tamable. Since the V-twin had a relatively predictable power band, I was able to give it gas while I was turning- accelerating out of the corner with peace of mind in knowing that I wouldn’t hit some change in the power band and kill myself. In this way, the SV650 was a fantastic ride. Suzuki really hit the nail on the head with this one.

But, like every bike, there were some caveats that I found myself getting annoyed with:

The styling just irked me - While there is no doubt that the Suzuki SV650S is a handsome bike, it lacked the sporty and aggressive appeal that some other motorcycles had (the new Yamaha FZ6R comes to mind). I wanted something a little more aggressive looking and, for the first time ever, I was beginning to appreciate the looks of naked bikes.

I didn’t want ABS – A great feature, yes, but not something that I wanted. I’ve never liked ABS on anything that I’ve ridden or drove.

A new rider will find the Suzuki SV650 a comfortable bike to ride. It’s a little heavier than some of the smaller entry level motorcycles, but a larger person (5’8″ and taller I’d say) shouldn’t have any problems keeping it in line. New riders may find the extra weight a bit difficult to handle a low speeds (parking lots, etc.), but careful practice will help overcome that hurdle.

Do I Recommend the Suzuki SV650 / Suzuki SV650S for a New Rider? Absolutely.

Ultimately, it’s up to the rider to determine what their comfort level is. However, the SV650 is one bike that is very forgiving of minor mistakes, won’t bite too hard, responds well to all types of riding, and is big enough to potentially last a new rider quite a few years. I know of many well experienced riders who would never give up their beloved Suzuki.

If you’re interested, I suggest you go out and ride one!

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The 2010 Motorcycle Show – Some Highlights, Part 1

The 2010 Motorcycle Show – Some Highlights, Part 2

Cameron Martel — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 18:52:24 +0000

The second installment of some of the highlights of the 2010 Calgary Motorcycle Show! If you haven’t read the first one, check out my preview of some great beginner bikes for 2010! I was really sold on the 2010 Kawasaki ER-6N… it really blew me away! I was never a fan of naked bikes before, but this one just looks fantastic.

This update is some beginner motorcycles, but mostly other stuff that I saw and liked. Unfortunately, a lot of the pictures that I took were blurry when I put them on my computer so I don’t have as much to share as I’d like

2010 Yamaha R6

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I’ve always loved the R6. In my mind it’s the best looking sport bike for sale, and it’s also one of the most comfortable for a guy my size (6’2″, 215lbs). Part of the reason that I’m so fond of “beginner motorcycles” is because they offer a comfortable riding position while maintaining good looks and affordability.

The R6 remains relatively unchanged for 2010, with the exception of a BNG package (bold new graphics) and some minor engine tuning to recoup a bit of the power that was lost last year due to tightened emissions regulations. The new power comes from a increase in the size of the exhaust, muffler (100mm longer), some airbox modification, and a new ECU.

2010 Suzuki GSX-R600

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The Suzuki GSX600: another viable contender in the super sport arena. Like the R6, the GSX600 features a 600cc, high-revving engine. Does 120+ HP @ 13,000+ RPM sound like your kind of machine? If so, the GSX-R600 might be right up your alley.

Do we recommend a bike like this to new riders? Absolutely not. The ability to go from 0-60mph in under 4 seconds on two wheels is something that only capable, experienced riders should take on. Not only that, but with a standing quarter mile of less than 11 seconds, this motorcycle is one of the fastest machines on the street.

Still, one can’t deny it’s sheer awesomeness.

2010 Suzuki GSX650F

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Here’s a bike to watch. There are plenty of rumors floating around on the internet that are talking about how the GSX650F is going to replace the GS500F on the entry-level/beginner side of things. No one can really know for sure what Suzuki’s plans are, but I’ve got the suspicion that the GS500F isn’t going anywhere anytime soon.

The GSX650F is often called the “faired version of the bandit”, and that’s largely correct. It incorporates ABS, a “big” 656cc engine, and big brakes, allowing this bike to hang with the other “big 650′s”. Like the Kawasaki Ninja 650R or the Suzuki SV650S, the GSX650F is multi-dimensional: it’s good for casual riding, touring, or more aggressive riding.

Watch for our review later this year.

2010 Yamaha FZ6R

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When we first hopped on the 2009 Yamaha FZ6R we ranted and raved about how smooth the 2003-esque R6 engine was, and how surprisingly quiet it was (your neighbors will love it, we are hit/miss about it). Yamaha has kept the basic formula the same with the 2010 FZ6R, aside from changing around some color schemes.

That being said, we still think it’s a fantastic entry into the market and are excited to see how this motorcycle evolves over time!